Best of St. Louis Food and Drink in 2019

Best Seafood

Bait
4239 Lindell Boulevard, 314-405-2797

As soon as a server walks out of the kitchen with Bait’s seafood boil, all eyes in the dining room turn to this stunning seafood feast. A giganti, bubbling cauldron of the sea’s bounty, this masterpiece is to Cajun seafood boils what the A5 Wagyu is to beef: pure and utter perfection . Chock-full of thick crab legs, plump jumbo shrimp, andouille sausage and potatoes so butter-soaked they may as well be a sponge, the marvelous dish dazzles at every turn — especially the caramelized bits of seasoning, browned butter and garlic that, when scraped off, serve as a mouthwatering tapenade you’d want to butter bread with. And this is only one of Bait’s impressive seafood dishes. At every turn, the Central West End restaurant impresses with dishes like a whole red snapper, fish and chips that could rival what’s served in the best English pub and “flaming” prawns served in a fiery bowl. Like all of Bait’s dishes, it’s a feast for the eyes, though it’s your palate that’s in for the real show.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Burger

The Double Cheeseburger at the Midwestern
900 Spruce Street, 314-696-2573

When chef Ben Welch was coming up with the menu for the Midwestern, he took inspiration from the other restaurants in town that were doing the best versions of particular dishes, then ran what he found through his own culinary sensibilities. When it came to burgers, he had no shortage of inspiration to draw from, but what he came up with for the Midwestern is so extraordinary it’s in a class of its own. Made from dry-aged brisket, Welch’s burger has an intense, concentrated beef flavor with a backbeat of tangy funk that would make George Clinton shed a tear. The loosely ground meat is like a composite of the fatty brisket, wonderfully juicy and crispy around the edges; these little hunks of beef crumble off the side like bite-sized meat crunchies that could be a menu item themselves. And Welch doesn’t stop there. He tops this magnificent meaty delight with gooey pub cheese, mayonnaise-heavy fry sauce, tomato jam and pickles, and then nestles it all onto a potato bun. You can tell it’s glorious without even taking a bite — though how you could resist for more than a second is beyond comprehension.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Brunch

The Clover and the Bee
100 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-942-1216

There’s something magical about dining at The Clover and the Bee. Maybe it’s the bright mural of flowers in the dining room, the comforting menu items or even just the restaurant’s name, a reference to an Emily Dickinson poem about following your dreams. Whatever the alchemy, it all coalesces into an experience like no other. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, but its greatest joy is brunch, offered on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. If you prefer a sweet start to your day, the pearl sugar waffle is a must try, made in the hexagonal shape of a honeycomb. Savory fans, meanwhile, should opt for the stone-ground grits with white cheddar, farm eggs, herbs and tomato ragu with crusty bread.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Food Truck

Balkan Treat Box
www.balkantreatbox.com

When Loryn Nalic fell in love with her husband, Edo, she also fell in love with the cuisine of his homeland, Bosnia. That passion for Balkan food turned into an all-consuming love affair — one that prompted Nalic to learn everything she could about the cuisine and devoted herself to being its ambassador. The product of that love is Balkan Treat Box, a food truck that has turned into a roving testament to the glory of Balkan-inspired food and culture. Out of this vibrant turquoise truck, the Nalics turn out not only some of the best food truck eats in town, but some of the town’s best food, period. The key is the wood-fired oven, which turns out glorious, char-blistered pide, or flatbread, that serves as the base for toppings like cheese, cevapi, brisket, döner kebab and a variety of Balkan condiments. One bite and you’ll realize why the Nalics have developed a devoted following and earned national acclaim in the process. These days, you can experience Balkan Treat Box at its new brick-and-mortar spot, but there’s something magical about eating this delicious food out of the truck where it all began.

Photo credit: Tom Hellauer

Best Bartender

Dave Greteman at Elmwood
2704 Sutton Boulevard, Maplewood; 314-261-4708

Dave Greteman has worked at some of the best bars in town. He got his start at Sasha’s on Shaw and Handlebar before logging what he calls formative experience at Taste, followed by stints at Sardella and Parlor. Now the bar director at Elmwood, which opened in Maplewood in January, Greteman has used his experience and expertise to curate a nuanced and relevant yet thoroughly unpretentious bar program. Cocktails are offered in three strengths — full proof, low proof and zero proof — and feature buzzy ingredients like amaro and pisco without ever feeling overly trendy or highfalutin. Greteman’s zero-proof, non-alcoholic cocktails are especially creative and fun; order the orange-thyme-sumac-beet number to get a taste.

Photo credit: Ellen Prinzi

Best Chinese

Corner 17
6623 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-727-2402

While we’ve all been focused on the clang (or lack thereof) of the controversial Loop Trolley, perhaps the most interesting story about the Delmar Loop is how it is quietly being remade into a hub of international cuisine that rivals South Grand or University City’s Chinatown. The anchor of that movement is six-year-old Corner 17, a noodle bar, bubble tea spot and bastion of authentic Chinese food that has become the hangout for the neighborhood’s sizeable international student population, as well as anyone who loves some of the best noodles this city has to offer. Those noodles — hand-pulled fresh in the restaurant — are what made the place famous, but when Corner 17 expanded a few years ago and added even more traditional dishes to its repertoire, it gave us even more reasons to love it. If you’ve had the mala tofu or the hong shao pork, you’ll be thankful the restaurant didn’t just stick to noodles, no matter how wonderful they are. Taken together, these magnificent dishes are quickly turning the spot into an institution and helping it define the new Delmar Loop.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Italian

Louie
706 De Mun Avenue, Clayton; 314-300-8188

Although not yet quite two years old, Louie already feels like a St. Louis dining institution. That is entirely to the credit of owner Matt McGuire and his team, who understand the key role that warm, welcoming hospitality plays in any dining experience. The kitchen crew, led by executive chef Sean Turner, puts that same level of attention and care into every dish, including must-try favorites such as the Roman gnocco, roasted chicken and polenta. Louie’s seasonal specials shine just as bright; in the summer, regulars look forward to savoring the wood-fired cherry tomato, burrata and basil pizza and sweet corn ravioli, while the winter brings comforting bowls of tortellini en brodo and wood-roasted radicchio with green beans, almonds and shallots.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Restaurant Service

Billie-Jean
7610 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-797-8484

The moment you walk into Billie-Jean, you know you are in a Zoë Robinson restaurant. It’s impossibly stylish, the aroma coming from the kitchen is intoxicating and the entire place has a lively energy that’s not always found in such upscale restaurants. However, if there is one mark of the Zoë Robinson experience that transcends all others, it’s surely the gracious hospitality that permeates every moment of the dining experience. At Billie-Jean, Robinson and her crew nail that perfect balance of being capable and knowledgeable while making you feel utterly relaxed. It’s like being taken care of by your best friend who happens to be the best server on the planet. Her crew will tell you that comes from the top — that Robinson is so great to work for, it makes them want to be better. Whatever she’s doing, it certainly works.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Place to Dine Alone

Pie Guy Pizza
4189 Manchester Avenue, 314-899-0444

It’s closing time on a Friday night in The Grove, you’ve had one (or ten) too many drinks and you’re not quite ready to go home. If all that booze is making you crave carbs, or you just don’t want the party to end, head to Pie Guy Pizza for a slice. Fortunately for you, Pie Guy stays open until midnight Tuesday through Thursday and ‘til 3:30 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Owner Mitch Frost knew that late-night eats were needed in town when he opened Pie Guy last year, and boy was he right: The later the hour, the crazier the scene at Pie Guy’s walk-up window. Now no night out feels complete without grabbing a pepperoni or vegan pesto slice before calling a Lyft home.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Chef

Rob Connoley of Bulrush
3307 Washington Boulevard, 314-449-1208

Rob Connoley is obsessive. It’s a character trait that made his long-awaited restaurant, Bulrush, take over three years to come to fruition. It’s why he’ll devote a tome’s worth of text to explaining his flatware and napkin decisions and why, once he decided to delve into Ozark cuisine, he went so far down the rabbit hole of research he was rummaging through boxes of handwritten notes from church ladies in the 1800s. However, that compulsion for perfection is also what has earned the entirely self-taught Connoley innumerable accolades and has resulted in what’s currently the most exciting restaurant in town. At Bulrush, Connoley has not just created a great restaurant; he (with the help of his right-hand man, Justin Bell) has resurrected a forgotten way of eating from a marginalized culture and is at the forefront of a movement to define what eating in this part of the country means. In this sense, Bulrush is more than a restaurant; it’s a testing ground for making us rethink what we eat from a man who is much more than a chef.

Photo credit: Jay Hemphill

Best Fried Chicken

Grace Meat + Three
4270 Manchester Avenue, 314-533-2700

Perfectly cooked fried chicken should have an airy and crispy outer breading with a solid crunch that gives way to juicy and flavorful meat. This is precisely the sort of fried chicken that has made chef Rick Lewis famous and exactly what you’ll find at Grace Meat + Three, the restaurant he operates with his wife, Elisa. The aptly named St. Lewis Fried Chicken is offered as a quarter, half or whole bird or as a plate of four wings or chicken tenders with house pickles (hot or original). Stop in for weekend brunch to try the fried chicken atop an heirloom corn waffle, or visit during happy hour for half off a fried chicken plate plus discounts on beer and cocktails.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Martini

The Gin Room
3200 South Grand Boulevard, 314-771-3411

If you’re looking for the best Martini in town, that means you’re also looking for the best gin selection. Natasha Bahrami isn’t just St. Louis’ resident gin expert — she’s quickly becoming one of the most knowledgeable and voracious promoters of gin education in the country. Since opening The Gin Room inside her family’s restaurant, Cafe Natasha, in 2014, Bahrami has expanded her programming and offerings at the bar as well as her outreach to the local and national spirits communities. Several Martinis are offered at The Gin Room — including one made with pomegranate molasses, a nod to Cafe Natasha’s Persian roots — but purists will want the Right Perfect made with Right Gin, Dolin rouge and dry vermouths and Regan’s orange bitters.

Photo credit: Monica Mileur

Best St. Louis Sandwich

The Hot Salami and Roast Beef from Gioia’s Deli
multiple locations including 1934 Macklind Avenue, 314-776-9410

By this time, everyone in St. Louis knows the glory of Gioia’s Deli’s hot salami. Heck, the decadent meaty wonder has a following even outside of our fair city considering that the restaurant won a James Beard America’s Classics award in 2017. It’s no wonder people are so enamored; the fatty, peppery, garlic-laden beef and pork sausage is an utter masterpiece so perfect, you wonder how anything but a little mustard and some crusty bread could make it better. Then, you have the hot salami and roast beef sandwich, which pairs the salami with thinly-shaved roast beef and gooey, Provel-covered garlic bread. The “goosh” from the buttery cheese bread smothers the beef and salami, wrapping them in creamy magnificence. It sounds like too much of a good thing, and it is. And that’s not a bad thing.

Photo credit: Ian Froeb

Best Sushi/Poke

Indo
1641D Tower Grove Avenue, 314-899-9333

Nick Bognar has been making some of the best nigiri in town for awhile — and in 2019, he’s finally getting much-deserved attention for it. In March, just days after he was nominated for a coveted James Beard Rising Star award for his work at Nippon Tei, Bognar announced a concept of his own, Indo, which debuted in Botanical Heights in June. For the best nigiri experience in St. Louis, make a reservation at the chef’s counter, where you can watch Bognar work as you dine on single bites of A5 Wagyu beef, cured and marinated masaba and bluefin tuna. Every piece of nigiri is artfully plated, yet it’s the intense and balanced flavor and rich texture of each that forms lasting memories.

Photo credit: Katie Counts

Best Steak

The Dry-Aged, Bone-In Ribeye at Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse & Bourbon Bar
2101 Chouteau Avenue, 314-241-2333

At Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse & Bourbon Bar, the whopping 22-ounce dry-aged ribeye is served with a mound of flaming sea salt — a dramatic flourish considering the steak and salt come out on a wooden platter. It’s showy, indeed, but the scene stealer is the steak itself: A massive hunk of Iowa Premium Black Angus gilded with so much rendered fat it sparkles in the flame’s light. The meat is positively magical, but what pushes it over the edge is its rub, a secret blend concocted by owner Paul Hamilton that forms a coarse crust over every edge. There’s black peppery heat, but the spice is mitigated by salt, smoke and a hint of sweetness, a perfect balance that enhances the deep umami flavor of the beef without covering it up. A special pleasure when you bite into a little pocket of rub-covered beef and buttery fat; the experience is similar to the decadent enjoyment that comes from feasting on marrow, but better.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Indian Restaurant

Himalayan Yeti
3515 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-354-8338

Fresh, high-quality ingredients and modern riffs on classic Nepalese and Indian specialties define the dining experience at Himalayan Yeti. Located in a former Long John Silver’s fast-food restaurant, Himalayan Yeti doesn’t stand out from the sidewalk, and the sparse decor inside doesn’t inspire much more confidence, but never fear — it’s chef-owner Dipak Prasai’s cooking that you’re here for, and rest assured, it’s plenty impressive. Get a taste of Prasai’s talent with favorites like the lamb vindaloo, chicken tikka masala or samosas stuffed with lightly spiced potatoes, peas, chickpeas and dried fruit. Be sure to order the kulcha bread, filled with a mixture of herbs and onion, to soak up extra sauce.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best New Restaurant

Elmwood
704 Sutton Boulevard, Maplewood; 314-261-4708

Much has been made about Elmwood’s Josper grill and oven — a piece of kitchen equipment so special it’s the only one of its kind in North America. What makes the Josper so unique is its restraint. It’s wood-fired, but clean-burning, primal, but controllable, resulting in flavors that are in perfect balance: char without bitterness, smoke that’s surprisingly gentle. In many ways, the Josper, in all of its beauty, is a microcosm for Elmwood. Owned by Niche alums Adam Altnether and Chris Kelling, this magnificent Maplewood spot has all of the makings of an ultra-fine-dining restaurant: sophisticated, flawlessly-executed dishes, magnificent design, a top-notch bar program and impeccable service. However, Altnether and Kelling manage to pull this off while still making the restaurant feel like the type of place you can roll into for a burger while wearing jeans. It’s nothing short of wizardry, and it’s the reason Elmwood has the sort of slow-burn staying power that has already put it on its way to becoming a St. Louis institution.

Photo credit: Mabel Suen

Best Wine List

Oaked
1031 Lynch Street, 314-305-7517

When you are seated at Oaked, your hostess or server will present you with a leather-bound wine list so thick, you could use it as a booster seat to prop up your toddler. The list is shockingly comprehensive, thoughtfully put-together and, despite its size, the entire service staff can confidently guide you through tasting notes on even the most esoteric bottles. This alone would put Oaked in the upper echelon of St. Louis wine lists, but the fact that it offers every bottle — yes, every single bottle — by the glass is nothing short of mind-blowing. Not only does it allow you to indulge in a wine that might be otherwise out of your price range, it also gives you the freedom to drink out of your comfort zone and enjoy less familiar varietals without the investment of a full bottle. It’s an ambitious and commendable wine program that must be painstakingly managed by the team at Oaked, but it pays off in the form of an incomparable beverage experience that makes this the city’s premier wine destination.

Photo credit: BTP BY ALISON

Best Spot for Omnivores and Vegetarians to Eat Together

Banh Mi So #1
4071 South Grand Boulevard, 314-353-0545

The trick to having a successful first (or third, or hundredth) date with someone who eats like you don’t is to pick a place where neither of you is at a disadvantage. Banh Mi So #1 represents the absolute ideal for this situation. Not only is their menu stocked with richly delicious fare, but everyone can agree that spring rolls don’t need meat to be perfect — and (as advertised in neon) their fried mung bean version truly is the best in town. It can be hard to find veggie pho, but they have both a beef and a vegetarian version that are matched for deeply satisfying flavor. And for every savory cut of pork or beef, there is an equally delightful and complex vegan option — the tofu curry noodle soup, for instance, or the banh xeo chay, scrumptious pan-fried crepes made with tofu and jicama. But the real reason to bring your meat-eating friend here is to make sure they order the Joe B., a miracle of marinated vegetarian beef laid inside a flaky, pillowy French baguette that will leave anyone of any stripe desperate for an encore serving. It’s a banh mi well worth switching sides for.

Photo credit: Cheryl Baehr

Best Place for Day Drinking

Form Skybar
705 Olive Street, 314-241-4300

There are plenty of worse backdrops for drinking in St. Louis than the downtown skyline, and at Form Skybar, the Old Courthouse and all her neighbors are available to gaze in full panoramic. The rooftop restaurant and bar opened inside Hotel Saint Louis in March and is named for famous architect Louis Sullivan and his philosophy that form follows function. Personally, we follow the philosophy that sweeping skyline views are best appreciated before sunset, so we prefer to stop in Form early. (Also, doesn’t day drinking just feel more deserved when it’s happening in classy digs?) Classic and signature cocktails are all priced at $12 a pop, and a selection of wine, beer and non-alcoholic cocktails are also offered.

Photo credit: Chelsea Neuling