In regular times, we’d be talking about Elmwood in terms of one of the city’s best overall restaurants, not touting its takeout pizza. However, in these anything-but-normal days, Elmwood’s impressive pivot to the pizza business is a testament to its tenacity, innovation and unyielding commitment to hospitality. You’d expect nothing less from GM/owner Chris Kelling and chef/owner Adam Altnether, two industry veterans whose impressive fine-dining resumes do not necessarily bespeak that of two guys running a carryout pizza and delivery spot. However, their commitment to doing whatever it takes to survive and continue to serve their guests has resulted in a truly outstanding pie. More than an afterthought, Elmwood’s pizzas embody all that’s wonderful about the restaurant: wood-fired cooking and quality ingredients that elevate a simple form. Whether it’s the classic pepperoni that reminds you of what a pepperoni pie can be or a whimsical taco pizza, Elmwood’s new incarnation is a bright spot where there could’ve been darkness. — Cheryl Baehr