Best of St. Louis 2020
Food & Drink
Staff Pick
Best Pizza
Elmwood
- MABEL SUEN
- Elmwood transitioned from a standout dine-in restaurant to amazing takeout pizza.
In regular times, we’d be talking about Elmwood in terms of one of the city’s best overall restaurants, not touting its takeout pizza. However, in these anything-but-normal days, Elmwood’s impressive pivot to the pizza business is a testament to its tenacity, innovation and unyielding commitment to hospitality. You’d expect nothing less from GM/owner Chris Kelling and chef/owner Adam Altnether, two industry veterans whose impressive fine-dining resumes do not necessarily bespeak that of two guys running a carryout pizza and delivery spot. However, their commitment to doing whatever it takes to survive and continue to serve their guests has resulted in a truly outstanding pie. More than an afterthought, Elmwood’s pizzas embody all that’s wonderful about the restaurant: wood-fired cooking and quality ingredients that elevate a simple form. Whether it’s the classic pepperoni that reminds you of what a pepperoni pie can be or a whimsical taco pizza, Elmwood’s new incarnation is a bright spot where there could’ve been darkness. — Cheryl Baehr
