Too many restaurants take the same, cynical approach to seafood: "You Midwestern rubes are lucky to have any seafood at all here in flyover country. Now eat this crab cake." At Oceano Bistro, you'll find a much more thoughtful approach. Yes, there is salmon — the default seafood entrée of every restaurant — but here it is grilled expertly, topped with a salad of apple and shaved fennel and a mustard-cider jus and served with a delicious "cake" of potato, bacon and arugula. Scallops, trout, halibut and more unusual fish such as the yasawan wahoo: Each is prepared to evoke its natural flavor and the current season, not some generic lemon-and-butter approach. And of course there are crab cakes, made — as they should be — with lump crabmeat from Maryland.
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