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Food & Drink

Best Use Of Rhubarb 

King Louie's

Kirk Warner, chef at King Louie's, near the St. Louis University hospital complex, must have memorized his Larousse Gastronomique the same way the devout memorize their bibles. How else would he have remembered that "the world's greatest culinary encyclopedia" actually mentions rhubarb compote as a fitting accompaniment to fish dishes? And the tartness of the rhubarb, usually thought of as a counterpoint to the sweetness of strawberry, is actually an ideal complement for Warner's potato-crusted grouper, which, if he hasn't fiddled with the recipe, offers diners the additional joy of rediscovering the ancient grain called faro. (Be fore_warned that Warner rotates his menu, so even when rhubarb is in season, this dish may not be.)

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