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Food & Drink

Best Use of the Worst Cheese 

Margherita Pizza

While some signature St. Louis foodstuffs have managed to find fans outside the 314/636/618, Provel don't get no love. Same goes for the other St. Louis creation with which it goes hand in hand, the oxymoronically named St. Louis-style pizza. Generally speaking, Rigazzi's, an institution on the Hill, has perfected the coupling of this imperfect cheese with its rightful partner. But while their roof-of-the-mouth-sticking squares are uniformly delightful, there's one true standout on the menu — and it's made all the more remarkable by the inclusion of another oft-shunned cheese. The Margherita Pizza, created and named for Queen Margherita of Italy, traditionally requires tomatoes, white cheese and basil, and is meant to represent the colors of the Italian flag. Like any other recipe, it appears in different incarnations from region to region, but those three ingredients never change. Tell that to the guys at Rigazzi's, who make their Margherita with basil, fresh tomatoes, Provel cheese. Gotta love it!

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