Billy G's Italian American Restaurant in Kirkwood

Why are these institutes of banality and Buffalo wings so popular? Their obsession with providing something for everyone translates into mammoth and disjointed menus, sometimes with a table of contents, that simultaneously offer sushi and spaghetti while relying on frozen, processed crap to keep up in the kitchen. But the lackluster food does not seem to bother the throngs of patrons who line up at the door, clasping their vibrating buzzers. Is it the décor? Location? The desire for familiarity?

Keep reading: Cheryl Baehr's review of Billy G's in Kirkwood.

Photos by Jennifer Silverberg for the Riverfront Times.
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The sesame-encrusted tuna is served with a soy-ginger reduction, honey-wasabi sauce and crispy wontons.
The sesame-encrusted tuna is served with a soy-ginger reduction, honey-wasabi sauce and crispy wontons.
Its "Farmhouse White" pizza is topped with roasted garlic-herb oil, mozzarella, and wild mushrooms, then finished with prosciutto, shaved parmesan and arugula
Its "Farmhouse White" pizza is topped with roasted garlic-herb oil, mozzarella, and wild mushrooms, then finished with prosciutto, shaved parmesan and arugula
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Billy's lasagna brings baked layers of noodles with house bolognese sauce, fresh spinach and parmesan cream blended with ricotta and mozzarella cheeses.
Billy's lasagna brings baked layers of noodles with house bolognese sauce, fresh spinach and parmesan cream blended with ricotta and mozzarella cheeses.
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This full slab of ribs is smoked in house and served with beans, cole slaw and cornbread.
This full slab of ribs is smoked in house and served with beans, cole slaw and cornbread.
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The "Sicilian salmon" is served with roasted tomatoes, braised spinach and a lemon-basil pesto.
The "Sicilian salmon" is served with roasted tomatoes, braised spinach and a lemon-basil pesto.
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Billy G's tutto mare comes packed with shrimp, clams, mussels and bay scallops, tossed with linguine, mushrooms, grape tomatoes, and spinach with white wine and fresh garlic.
Billy G's tutto mare comes packed with shrimp, clams, mussels and bay scallops, tossed with linguine, mushrooms, grape tomatoes, and spinach with white wine and fresh garlic.
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The "Smokehouse Burger" is a half-pound patty topped with soft cheddar, Billy's barbecue  sauce, bacon and onion straws on a butter kaiser roll.
The "Smokehouse Burger" is a half-pound patty topped with soft cheddar, Billy's barbecue sauce, bacon and onion straws on a butter kaiser roll.
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This full slab of ribs is smoked in house and served with beans, cole slaw and cornbread.
This full slab of ribs is smoked in house and served with beans, cole slaw and cornbread.
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Inside at Billy G's.
Inside at Billy G's.
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A cook cuts a pizza at Billy G's, before sending out to the dining room.
A cook cuts a pizza at Billy G's, before sending out to the dining room.
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Billy G's boasts an expansive patio.
Billy G's boasts an expansive patio.
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Billy G's boasts an expansive patio.
Billy G's boasts an expansive patio.
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One of Billy G's bars.
One of Billy G's bars.
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Billy G's boasts an expansive patio.
Billy G's boasts an expansive patio.
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Inside at Billy G's.
Inside at Billy G's.
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Inside at Billy G's.
Inside at Billy G's.
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Inside at Billy G's.
Inside at Billy G's.
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Billy G's kitchen.
Billy G's kitchen.
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Inside at Billy G's.
Inside at Billy G's.
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Billy G's kitchen.
Billy G's kitchen.
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