The beloved St. Louis institution has received a 21st-century makeover. Its new location in the Central West End's Maryland Plaza is a sleek, modern dessert bar. The menu divides desserts into light-, medium- and full-bodied selections. The last group offers a chocolate terrine as dense as a neutron star and a surprisingly good version of the ubiquitous flourless chocolate cake. Medium-bodied desserts include a silky chocolate pot de crème, and the standout among the light-bodied desserts is a smooth, cooling milk chocolate semi freddo. You can try selected Bissinger's chocolates in "Confection Flights," and several liqueurs are available as shots served in a cup made of chocolate.