The new Bocci Wine Bar lacks a cohesive identity. Unlike its sister restaurant that oozes Catalan character, Bocci Bar doesn’t seem to know what it wants to be. On the one hand, it’s a wine bar, with fancy temperature-control systems and a comprehensive selection of wines by the glass to encourage tastings. Then again, it takes on some of the character of a pop-up with a monthly theme based around a particular country (on one of my visits it was Argentina; on the other, France). As such, Bocci serves a core menu that changes regularly, but it also has a secondary menu based on the theme month. If all of this sounds confusing, it is.
Keep reading: Cheryl Baehr's review of Bocci Bar.
Photos by Jennifer Silverberg for the Riverfront Times