Copia beat the odds, reopening two and a half years after a fire gutted the stylish and popular Washington Avenue restaurant. The look and the menu didn't change much in the hiatus. The space is outsize, with a spacious main dining room and an even bigger "wine garden" (with a retractable roof!). The menu caters to the tastes of St. Louis diners before the economy collapsed. Standout dishes include the smoked spare ribs and duck breast in a sauce of its own pan juices with candied dates and green peppercorns. If a dish sounds too 1990s-early 2000s-ish to be good - like, say, tuna with wasabi-infused mashed potatoes - trust your gut.