The big kahuna of Hill-style Italian, Cunetto is forever jammed with enraptured noodle worshipers jostling for space at the trough. The lights are so dim you could go blind trying to translate the innumerable pasta selections into English. Just remember: Vongole means "clams," and you don't have to spend a lot of them here for a fill-up. Expect epic bowls of spaghetti Bolognese to pack some serious poundage. A meat dish such as veal marsala looks more demure, until your brisk server plunks down a jumbo plate of spaghetti alongside it.