Diner's Delight

The first time you go, Diner's Delight won't look like it's open -- heck, you might even think the place is condemned. But the broken-down exterior is just part of this one-room cafeteria's charm. From these humble environs spring forth soul-food sensations: Salisbury steak, ham hocks, pork steaks, fried chicken, breaded and deep-fried tripe, catfish, candied yams, mustard and turnip greens, black-eyed peas, spaghetti with tomato sauce (a soul-food-cafeteria staple we always get a kick out of). The signature item is the pancake-shape cornbread that comes with every meal (one or two pieces of meat, mix or match, and one or two sides). Proprietor Jo Houston (who's got a warm smile for customers new and old) has been at work here since 1969; in our book, that makes her and her Diner's Delight St. Louis culinary royalty.