Dvin

Blink and you'll pass right by this itsy-bitsy storefront restaurant and its down-home delicious Eastern European offerings. Gyros, blintzes, hummus, chicken Kiev -- all the classics of Greek, Armenian and Russian cuisines comprise the menu, as well as curious additions like Armenian dip (kidney beans, bits of fried white onion and sesame seeds, like a refried-bean dip with more integrity) and Ukranian-style goulash, which foregoes Hungary's sour cream and buttery noodles for a light, flavorful herb-based broth. The mother-daughter team running the joint -- Mom owns the place and cooks, daughter waits tables -- may come off as standoffish in that humorless, behind-the-Iron-Curtain way, but don't be intimidated. Besides, the food is imbued with enough love to make up for it.