You know a pizza place is reliable when it's a favorite hangout for cops. So Frank & Helen's, which originally opened in 1956, must be one steadfast eatery -- its current owner, Scott DePolito, is a former U. City police officer who now feeds the joint's famous pizza and broasted chicken to his former colleagues. The pizzas, halfway between St. Louis and New York-style, are thin-crusted (not cracker-crusted), made with mozzarella (not Provel) and cut into squares. The menu also features blue-collar staples like fried zucchini sticks, burgers and steak dinners. Many of Frank & Helen's ever-loyal customers were introduced to the place by their grandparents; now, they bring their grandkids.