Go! Gyro! Go!

Go! Gyro! Go! owner Nick Cowlen grew up in the restaurant business, working for his father at Clayton's Top of the Sevens restaurant. After a spell in real estate, he along with his wife, Laura, launched Go! Gyro! Go! this past fall. The truck's signature gyro follows the classic template: thin, tender strips of seasoned beef and lamb folded into pita with tomato, red onion, parsley, feta cheese and tzatziki sauce. The meat is excellent, the seasoning adding a lightly spicy punch to its natural flavors (to me, at least, tasting of lamb more than beef), while the toppings — especially bright red slices of tomato that actually tasted like, you know, tomato and the thick, tangy tzatziki — provide a cool, crisp counterpoint. A small, but welcome touch: Your pita is lightly toasted on the grill. Go! Gyro! Go! also grills skewers of marinated white-meat chicken, which it serves as a straight-up shish kebab or removed from the skewer in a pita with the same toppings as the gyro. The chicken has a good balance of grill char, its own essence and a bright, simple marinade (I tasted a hint of citrus and a dash of herbs). A vegetarian gyro swaps out the meat for cucumber, green pepper and kalamata olives. The online menu lists a "Bifteki Gyro," featuring Greek meatballs, but this wasn't available on any of my visits.

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