Created by the owners of the acclaimed Pi Pizzeria, Gringo brings a bit of the Baja to the Central West End. Its beach-shack vibe, airy interior and wrap-around patio on one of St. Louis’ primest people-watching corners make for a good way to waste an afternoon sipping margaritas. Gringo bills itself as modern Mexican food with a twist, with its name summing up its irreverent approach to traditional south-of-the-border cuisine. Guacamole prepared tableside is a spectator sport and allows diners to doctor the dip to their specifications. For those expecting traditional ceviche, the shrimp coctel ceviche is neither — think more shrimp cocktail than citrus-cured seafood. While the taco selection is eclectic, the results are underwhelming, particularly disappointing considering that the tacos are the anchor of the menu. For the especially adventurous, the taco chapulines give diners the opportunity to dine on grasshoppers. It’s high on novelty, but be prepared for a salt-bomb. The bottom line? Go for the atmosphere and drinks, but do not expect much in the food department.