If regulars could keep this place a secret, they would. Dining at I Fratellini, the second venture of Zoë Robinson (of the eponymous Zoë Pan-Asian Café in the CWE) and her executive chef Ny Vongsaly, is one of the St. Louis dining scene's singular pleasures. A meal can begin with warm baguettes and pistachio-studded butter and segue into a arugula salad with toasted pine nuts. Then comes the entrée -- snapper with kalamata olives, perhaps, or beef medallions -- and then, of course, dessert (fresh offerings from La Dolce Via). Everything here, from the Modernist light fixtures to the tabletop roses to the gracious service, is just right.