Mask mandates may be a thing of the past, dining rooms are at full capacity and diners have come back out in full force. If you’re on the receiving end of the service industry, you’d be tempted to think that the pandemic is over with restaurants basking in a Roaring ’20s-style resurgence fueled by the public’s unquenchable thirst for merriment. But while it’s true that the demand side of the equation has not simply recovered but grown even stronger since before the COVID-19 outbreak, things have not returned to normal for the industry itself — not even close.
Staff shortages, which have stressed nearly every restaurant to the breaking point, signal a long-time-coming systemic reckoning wherein service-industry employees are pushing back against an old-fashioned and, at worst, abusive culture. Supply-chain breakdowns mean that restaurants — especially immigrant-owned mom-and-pop shops — have a difficult time sourcing what they need to run their businesses. Price increases are being disproportionately absorbed by restaurants, which know that they need to charge $22 for cheeseburgers but equally know their customers won’t stomach the cost. Add to this a stressed and exhausted dining public that pushes the limits of the now-outdated adage “the customer is always right,” and you get a situation where many in the industry are asking themselves why in the hell they are even in this business.
The following places remind us why. In looking at the names that make up the Best of St. Louis Food and Drink for 2022, what’s striking is not a particular dish, a well-balanced cocktail or a stunning view but the sheer grit demonstrated by the people behind each of these places. That they have the strength to persevere in the face of such difficulty is more than impressive — it’s the most honest form of hospitality there is.
—Cheryl Baehr
*Due to the volatility in the restaurant industry, please always call or check a restaurant’s website before going.
RFT's Best of Food & Drink in St. Louis 2022 [PHOTOS]
By Riverfront Times on Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 12:06 pm
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Mabel Suen
Best Korean
Chicken Seven
In the summer of 2021, husband and wife Sean Lee and Erica Park opened Chicken Seven (6312 South Grand Boulevard, 314-354-6349) in a former bar in the city’s Carondelet neighborhood with the goal of bringing the Korean fried chicken and street-food experience to St. Louis. It’s been a struggle. From finding themselves stymied in their efforts to get a liquor license to being harassed by their neighbors (don’t even think about parking in the adjacent apartment building’s lot), the pair have faced adversity at just about every turn. Miraculously, they haven’t let it stop them from turning out the gold standard of Korean fried chicken. Lee’s bird has a coating that’s as crunchy as a kettle-cooked potato chip but also impossibly light, wrapping the searing-hot meat in a layer of savory flavor so crisp you can hear someone bite into a drumstick from across the room. Alone, it is magical, but Lee’s sauces, like a honey soy garlic or sweet chili yum yum sauce, push it over the edge. The chicken alone is worth a visit, but Chicken Seven also dazzles with snacks such as the Korean corn dog, which is like the offspring of a mozzarella stick and a cinnamon-sugar doughnut, and the SDSD, a glorious hot-dog-topped sticky-rice dish paired with yum yum sauce. That the parks can continue to put out such good food in the midst of adversity is a testament to their talent and tenacity.
—Cheryl Baehr
Chicken Seven
In the summer of 2021, husband and wife Sean Lee and Erica Park opened Chicken Seven (6312 South Grand Boulevard, 314-354-6349) in a former bar in the city’s Carondelet neighborhood with the goal of bringing the Korean fried chicken and street-food experience to St. Louis. It’s been a struggle. From finding themselves stymied in their efforts to get a liquor license to being harassed by their neighbors (don’t even think about parking in the adjacent apartment building’s lot), the pair have faced adversity at just about every turn. Miraculously, they haven’t let it stop them from turning out the gold standard of Korean fried chicken. Lee’s bird has a coating that’s as crunchy as a kettle-cooked potato chip but also impossibly light, wrapping the searing-hot meat in a layer of savory flavor so crisp you can hear someone bite into a drumstick from across the room. Alone, it is magical, but Lee’s sauces, like a honey soy garlic or sweet chili yum yum sauce, push it over the edge. The chicken alone is worth a visit, but Chicken Seven also dazzles with snacks such as the Korean corn dog, which is like the offspring of a mozzarella stick and a cinnamon-sugar doughnut, and the SDSD, a glorious hot-dog-topped sticky-rice dish paired with yum yum sauce. That the parks can continue to put out such good food in the midst of adversity is a testament to their talent and tenacity.
—Cheryl Baehr
Mabel Suen
Best Burger
Jack Nolen's
Jack Nolen’s (2501 South Ninth Street) owner Jim Grindstaff doesn’t have a phone in his Soulard establishment. What he does have is the city’s most quintessential smashburger, a stunning specimen created after he traveled the country on a quest to discover what makes for a delicious burger patty. He paid attention to the key details — the ideal blend of beef, the perfect melty cheese, the right type of bun — and the culmination of that effort is Jack Nolen’s double cheeseburger, a magical smashburger that is a perfection of the form. The key is the beef mix, a blend of brisket, chuck and short rib that is so well marbled it remains buttery and tender throughout when smashed on the flattop, save for the crispy edges that are like a beefy lace. Gooey American cheese seeps into every crevice, and a simple garnish of lettuce, tomato, onion and dill pickle slices crown the beauty before it’s tucked into a soft potato bun. That you can enjoy such a classic while bellied up to the bar at such a quintessential watering hole only adds to the mystique. It’s a good thing he doesn’t have a phone; it would be ringing off the hook.
—Cheryl Baehr
Jack Nolen's
Jack Nolen’s (2501 South Ninth Street) owner Jim Grindstaff doesn’t have a phone in his Soulard establishment. What he does have is the city’s most quintessential smashburger, a stunning specimen created after he traveled the country on a quest to discover what makes for a delicious burger patty. He paid attention to the key details — the ideal blend of beef, the perfect melty cheese, the right type of bun — and the culmination of that effort is Jack Nolen’s double cheeseburger, a magical smashburger that is a perfection of the form. The key is the beef mix, a blend of brisket, chuck and short rib that is so well marbled it remains buttery and tender throughout when smashed on the flattop, save for the crispy edges that are like a beefy lace. Gooey American cheese seeps into every crevice, and a simple garnish of lettuce, tomato, onion and dill pickle slices crown the beauty before it’s tucked into a soft potato bun. That you can enjoy such a classic while bellied up to the bar at such a quintessential watering hole only adds to the mystique. It’s a good thing he doesn’t have a phone; it would be ringing off the hook.
—Cheryl Baehr
1 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Indian
Basil India
When Basil India (3183 South Grand Boulevard, 314-428-9711) opened in April 2022, the restaurant had big shoes to fill: those of beloved South Grand mainstay Basil Spice. But any concern among south-city foodies was quickly dispelled the moment they tried chef Madan Chhetri’s crispy noodle salad, chili paneer or nasi goreng (an Indonesian rice, tofu and shrimp dish). The fare is outstanding. Chhetri is a nationally recognized chef known for innovative Indian and Indo-Chinese cuisine. For anyone new to Indian food, start with Basil India’s red curry or the chicken tikka masala. A side of flaky paratha is the perfect complement to both dishes. Explore the menu and expand your taste buds from there. Wash it down with a mango smoothie or a Thai tea.
—Ryan Krull
Basil India
When Basil India (3183 South Grand Boulevard, 314-428-9711) opened in April 2022, the restaurant had big shoes to fill: those of beloved South Grand mainstay Basil Spice. But any concern among south-city foodies was quickly dispelled the moment they tried chef Madan Chhetri’s crispy noodle salad, chili paneer or nasi goreng (an Indonesian rice, tofu and shrimp dish). The fare is outstanding. Chhetri is a nationally recognized chef known for innovative Indian and Indo-Chinese cuisine. For anyone new to Indian food, start with Basil India’s red curry or the chicken tikka masala. A side of flaky paratha is the perfect complement to both dishes. Explore the menu and expand your taste buds from there. Wash it down with a mango smoothie or a Thai tea.
—Ryan Krull
2 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Breakfast
Bowood by Niche
Less a place to go for a bite to eat than an opportunity to bask in nature’s splendor, Bowood by Niche (4605 Olive Street, 314-454-6868) is a true culinary oasis. Located inside the stunningly beautiful, glass-enclosed Bowood Farms garden center in the Central West End, the restaurant feels like the culinary gem of the Garden of Eden. In such a lovely setting, you’d expect the atmosphere to shine more than the food, but thanks to chef Koda Williams, it’s the opposite. The talented Williams was chosen to head the restaurant’s culinary operations after his boss, Niche Food Group’s Gerard Craft, took over the space last year. On Williams’ watch, the restaurant’s breakfast menu has become the food equivalent of a warm hug filled with so much love it transcends the traditional daytime-fare playbook. Familiar items such as eggs Benedict become transcendent in Williams’ capable hands; flawlessly poached eggs, prosciutto, brown-butter hollandaise and toasted semolina bread elevate the brunch classic, while rustic, blueberry-flecked buttermilk pancakes provide easy morning comfort. Even a dish as humble as oatmeal is revelatory, served in a deep-blue Le Creuset and topped with brown sugar, apples, dried and jammed fruit, almonds, almond milk and cultured butter. Like all of Bowood’s breakfast fare, it’s a dish worthy of its gorgeous digs.
—Cheryl Baehr
Bowood by Niche
Less a place to go for a bite to eat than an opportunity to bask in nature’s splendor, Bowood by Niche (4605 Olive Street, 314-454-6868) is a true culinary oasis. Located inside the stunningly beautiful, glass-enclosed Bowood Farms garden center in the Central West End, the restaurant feels like the culinary gem of the Garden of Eden. In such a lovely setting, you’d expect the atmosphere to shine more than the food, but thanks to chef Koda Williams, it’s the opposite. The talented Williams was chosen to head the restaurant’s culinary operations after his boss, Niche Food Group’s Gerard Craft, took over the space last year. On Williams’ watch, the restaurant’s breakfast menu has become the food equivalent of a warm hug filled with so much love it transcends the traditional daytime-fare playbook. Familiar items such as eggs Benedict become transcendent in Williams’ capable hands; flawlessly poached eggs, prosciutto, brown-butter hollandaise and toasted semolina bread elevate the brunch classic, while rustic, blueberry-flecked buttermilk pancakes provide easy morning comfort. Even a dish as humble as oatmeal is revelatory, served in a deep-blue Le Creuset and topped with brown sugar, apples, dried and jammed fruit, almonds, almond milk and cultured butter. Like all of Bowood’s breakfast fare, it’s a dish worthy of its gorgeous digs.
—Cheryl Baehr
3 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Thai
Chao Baan
Nearly 40 years ago, the Prapaisilp family opened their South Grand restaurant the King and I, introducing St. Louis diners to Thai food and cementing themselves as one of the city’s most beloved restaurants. In 2019, they channeled that success into Chao Baan (4087 Chouteau Avenue #5, 314-925-8250), a deeply personal regional Thai restaurant that represents who they are as a family. Owner Shayn Prapaisilp says Chao Baan’s combination of Thai dishes only exists because of his parents; his father hails from the Malaysian-inflected south, while his mother is a native of the northern part of the country, which borders Laos. As he tells it, the two areas’ culinary styles are as different as those of Miami and the Pacific Northwest, but at Chao Baan, they coexist beautifully and offer a regional approach to Thai cuisine unlike any other in the area. Prapaisilp notes that a meal at Chao Baan is a window into a meal at his family’s home dining-room table — we’re lucky to be invited.
—Cheryl Baehr
Chao Baan
Nearly 40 years ago, the Prapaisilp family opened their South Grand restaurant the King and I, introducing St. Louis diners to Thai food and cementing themselves as one of the city’s most beloved restaurants. In 2019, they channeled that success into Chao Baan (4087 Chouteau Avenue #5, 314-925-8250), a deeply personal regional Thai restaurant that represents who they are as a family. Owner Shayn Prapaisilp says Chao Baan’s combination of Thai dishes only exists because of his parents; his father hails from the Malaysian-inflected south, while his mother is a native of the northern part of the country, which borders Laos. As he tells it, the two areas’ culinary styles are as different as those of Miami and the Pacific Northwest, but at Chao Baan, they coexist beautifully and offer a regional approach to Thai cuisine unlike any other in the area. Prapaisilp notes that a meal at Chao Baan is a window into a meal at his family’s home dining-room table — we’re lucky to be invited.
—Cheryl Baehr
4 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Sliders
Burger 809
If we could marry a slider, we would race to the altar with Tasha Smith’s at Burger 809 (1821 Cherokee Street, 314-809-5959). Gone are the days of gladly suffering through a White Castle belly-bomber: We have entered a blissful utopia of pretzel and toasted buns. Smith’s sliders are not simple culinary craft — they are works of art that belong in the Louvre. A wide variety of snack-sized burgers are available, and every single one melts in your mouth. Smith takes it a step further by also making each one memorable — you’ll walk out wondering the next time you’ll be able to come back. Seriously, we dream about these sliders. And you will, too.
—Jenna Jones
Burger 809
If we could marry a slider, we would race to the altar with Tasha Smith’s at Burger 809 (1821 Cherokee Street, 314-809-5959). Gone are the days of gladly suffering through a White Castle belly-bomber: We have entered a blissful utopia of pretzel and toasted buns. Smith’s sliders are not simple culinary craft — they are works of art that belong in the Louvre. A wide variety of snack-sized burgers are available, and every single one melts in your mouth. Smith takes it a step further by also making each one memorable — you’ll walk out wondering the next time you’ll be able to come back. Seriously, we dream about these sliders. And you will, too.
—Jenna Jones
5 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Chinese
Corner 17
Earlier this year, a social media influencer felt firsthand the ferocity with which the St. Louis restaurant community comes to the defense of its own when he dragged Corner 17 (6623 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-727-2402) online after the restaurant refused to give him free food. The telling thing about the incident is not only the strength of our civic pride but that Corner 17 is such a beloved spot people were willing to come to its defense. If you’ve dined at this Delmar Loop eatery, you understand why. Known for its hand-pulled noodles, Corner 17 offers an expansive menu of delectable delights, like cumin lamb, a wide range of bao and dumplings, and twice-cooked pork belly that is positively life-changing. Add to this a wonderful selection of bubble tea and it’s clear why everyone in town has its back.
—Cheryl Baehr
Corner 17
Earlier this year, a social media influencer felt firsthand the ferocity with which the St. Louis restaurant community comes to the defense of its own when he dragged Corner 17 (6623 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-727-2402) online after the restaurant refused to give him free food. The telling thing about the incident is not only the strength of our civic pride but that Corner 17 is such a beloved spot people were willing to come to its defense. If you’ve dined at this Delmar Loop eatery, you understand why. Known for its hand-pulled noodles, Corner 17 offers an expansive menu of delectable delights, like cumin lamb, a wide range of bao and dumplings, and twice-cooked pork belly that is positively life-changing. Add to this a wonderful selection of bubble tea and it’s clear why everyone in town has its back.
—Cheryl Baehr
7 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Fast Food
Eat DuckBill
While working as a one-man show at his food counter Eat DuckBill (4501 Manchester Avenue, no phone), it’s not uncommon for owner Grant Heman to get error messages on his point-of-sale system alerting him of duplicate orders. Silly point-of-sale. Were his computer a sentient being, it would know that the reason the same customers keep reupping on his signature Chooch’s popcorn chicken is because one order is never enough. Heman may be serving humble bar snacks out of the popular watering hole Platypus, but he puts the same care into his food as you’d see in a high-end establishment. Crispy tofu, roasted cauliflower, caramelized Brussels sprouts and hand-cut fries are all outstanding noshes, but it’s Heman’s popcorn chicken that makes this food window utterly transcendent. Inspired by his daughter, Chandler, who he lovingly refers to as Chooch, his popcorn chicken is perfection, made from chicken thighs that he butchers himself and then brines before coating them in a seasoned flour and dunking them in the fryer. Paired with one of his mouth-watering housemade sauces, it’s such a perfect snack food you understand why people keep coming back for more.
—Cheryl Baehr
Eat DuckBill
While working as a one-man show at his food counter Eat DuckBill (4501 Manchester Avenue, no phone), it’s not uncommon for owner Grant Heman to get error messages on his point-of-sale system alerting him of duplicate orders. Silly point-of-sale. Were his computer a sentient being, it would know that the reason the same customers keep reupping on his signature Chooch’s popcorn chicken is because one order is never enough. Heman may be serving humble bar snacks out of the popular watering hole Platypus, but he puts the same care into his food as you’d see in a high-end establishment. Crispy tofu, roasted cauliflower, caramelized Brussels sprouts and hand-cut fries are all outstanding noshes, but it’s Heman’s popcorn chicken that makes this food window utterly transcendent. Inspired by his daughter, Chandler, who he lovingly refers to as Chooch, his popcorn chicken is perfection, made from chicken thighs that he butchers himself and then brines before coating them in a seasoned flour and dunking them in the fryer. Paired with one of his mouth-watering housemade sauces, it’s such a perfect snack food you understand why people keep coming back for more.
—Cheryl Baehr
8 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Neighborhood Restaurant
Grand Pied
When Tony Collida and Jaimee Stang opened Grand Pied (3137 Morgan Ford Road, no phone) in August of last year, they envisioned an entirely different place than what the restaurant has morphed into. Originally conceived of as the food part of a bar-restaurant shared concept, Collida and Stang had to pivot when the bar side of the operation shuttered. That change created uncertainty for the pair, but over time, they saw their situation as an opportunity to create a restaurant on their terms. Since the beginning of the year, Collida and Stang have repositioned Grand Pied as a cozy neighborhood spot, focusing on brunch all day and easy comfort-food dishes that are approachable yet show off Collida’s undeniable talent. His fried chicken, dirty grits, beignets and pork steaks are the sort of country-inflected comfort you’d find on your grandma’s table. But no dish showcases Collida’s culinary prowess better than his pancakes. These fluffy wonders, which are like a marriage of pancakes and flan, are so fluffy and creamy they jiggle when set down on the table. Grand Pied may not be the restaurant its owners thought it would be, but it turned out to be the restaurant we all need.
—Cheryl Baehr
Grand Pied
When Tony Collida and Jaimee Stang opened Grand Pied (3137 Morgan Ford Road, no phone) in August of last year, they envisioned an entirely different place than what the restaurant has morphed into. Originally conceived of as the food part of a bar-restaurant shared concept, Collida and Stang had to pivot when the bar side of the operation shuttered. That change created uncertainty for the pair, but over time, they saw their situation as an opportunity to create a restaurant on their terms. Since the beginning of the year, Collida and Stang have repositioned Grand Pied as a cozy neighborhood spot, focusing on brunch all day and easy comfort-food dishes that are approachable yet show off Collida’s undeniable talent. His fried chicken, dirty grits, beignets and pork steaks are the sort of country-inflected comfort you’d find on your grandma’s table. But no dish showcases Collida’s culinary prowess better than his pancakes. These fluffy wonders, which are like a marriage of pancakes and flan, are so fluffy and creamy they jiggle when set down on the table. Grand Pied may not be the restaurant its owners thought it would be, but it turned out to be the restaurant we all need.
—Cheryl Baehr
9 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Italian
J. Devoti Trattoria
J. Devoti Trattoria (5100 Daggett Avenue, 314-773-5553) may be an Italian restaurant on the Hill, but it is anything but a “Hill Italian restaurant.” Instead of Provel-covered, red-sauce pastas and sweet vinaigrette-saturated salads, chef and owner Anthony Devoti stays true to the way they do it in the old country, offering a menu that changes every day to reflect the best of what’s available from local farms. Ever since he opened his former restaurant, Five Bistro, in 2006, Devoti has been quietly turning out some of the best dishes in the area — elegant yet approachable, impeccably executed yet unfussy, his food is a master class in farm-to-table dining. Whether it’s a pizza topped with housemade sausage, handmade ricotta and mushroom ravioli, or Devoti’s legendary pork and beef burger that should be brought up in conversation as the town’s best cheeseburger, J. Devoti delights at every turn. Add to this a thoughtful, dignified kids’ menu that tells you you’re welcome to enjoy a great meal in a lovely dining room with the littles, and you have a perfect restaurant that can be as family friendly as it is a romantic spot for date night. It doesn’t get any more Italian than that.
—Cheryl Baehr
J. Devoti Trattoria
J. Devoti Trattoria (5100 Daggett Avenue, 314-773-5553) may be an Italian restaurant on the Hill, but it is anything but a “Hill Italian restaurant.” Instead of Provel-covered, red-sauce pastas and sweet vinaigrette-saturated salads, chef and owner Anthony Devoti stays true to the way they do it in the old country, offering a menu that changes every day to reflect the best of what’s available from local farms. Ever since he opened his former restaurant, Five Bistro, in 2006, Devoti has been quietly turning out some of the best dishes in the area — elegant yet approachable, impeccably executed yet unfussy, his food is a master class in farm-to-table dining. Whether it’s a pizza topped with housemade sausage, handmade ricotta and mushroom ravioli, or Devoti’s legendary pork and beef burger that should be brought up in conversation as the town’s best cheeseburger, J. Devoti delights at every turn. Add to this a thoughtful, dignified kids’ menu that tells you you’re welcome to enjoy a great meal in a lovely dining room with the littles, and you have a perfect restaurant that can be as family friendly as it is a romantic spot for date night. It doesn’t get any more Italian than that.
—Cheryl Baehr
10 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Place to Dine Alone
Little Fox
When Little Fox (2800 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-553-9456) got written up in the New York Times last fall as one of “the 50 most vibrant and delicious restaurants of 2021,” it made what had been a tough reservation suddenly near impossible. The friendly corner bistro in the Fox Park neighborhood was deluged with food lovers from across the metro area — and even a full month out, diners might consider themselves lucky to score a reservation at the ungodly-for-St. Louis hour of 9 p.m. But! Little Fox has a little secret, and that’s the bar. You can order the full menu there, and even on weekends, eating there tends to be a surprisingly pleasant, jostle-free experience. You might well land a pair of barstools à deux. But why bring your date when you could simply soak in the surroundings? The bartenders here are excellent at gauging your mood and giving you as much space or attention as you desire. Did we mention this is one of the most vibrant and delicious restaurants around? Who needs a dining companion when you can take down the crispy artichokes and sop up every last bite of the little gem salad’s buttermilk vinaigrette all by yourself? Eating solo is one of the most indulgent ways to experience one of the city’s best restaurants.
—Sarah Fenske
Little Fox
When Little Fox (2800 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-553-9456) got written up in the New York Times last fall as one of “the 50 most vibrant and delicious restaurants of 2021,” it made what had been a tough reservation suddenly near impossible. The friendly corner bistro in the Fox Park neighborhood was deluged with food lovers from across the metro area — and even a full month out, diners might consider themselves lucky to score a reservation at the ungodly-for-St. Louis hour of 9 p.m. But! Little Fox has a little secret, and that’s the bar. You can order the full menu there, and even on weekends, eating there tends to be a surprisingly pleasant, jostle-free experience. You might well land a pair of barstools à deux. But why bring your date when you could simply soak in the surroundings? The bartenders here are excellent at gauging your mood and giving you as much space or attention as you desire. Did we mention this is one of the most vibrant and delicious restaurants around? Who needs a dining companion when you can take down the crispy artichokes and sop up every last bite of the little gem salad’s buttermilk vinaigrette all by yourself? Eating solo is one of the most indulgent ways to experience one of the city’s best restaurants.
—Sarah Fenske
11 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best St. Louis-Style Pizza
Monte Bello Pizzeria
Monte Bello Pizzeria (3662 Weber Road, 314-638-8861) can’t claim definitively that it was the first-ever restaurant to offer St. Louis-style pizza, but it is certainly one of — if not the — city’s oldest spots for the cracker-crust delicacy. Founded in 1953 by the Petrillo family and run for decades by its second owners, the Morgans, the restaurant has come to define the genre for its loyal Lemay customers, as well as those who travel far and wide for a taste of St. Louis pizza history. Current owners Dennis and Tonya Buechel are fiercely protective of that legacy and have committed to keeping things going the way they always have. This means using the same recipe — one that (gasp!) doesn’t include Provel — the same deck ovens, the same vintage pizza pans and even the same ravioli prep board made for the restaurant back in the 1960s as a shop-class project by one of the restaurant’s regulars. When you taste a Monte Bello pizza, you’re tasting a good pie for sure, but what makes it really special is that you are tasting a bit of St. Louis history.
—Cheryl Baehr
Monte Bello Pizzeria
Monte Bello Pizzeria (3662 Weber Road, 314-638-8861) can’t claim definitively that it was the first-ever restaurant to offer St. Louis-style pizza, but it is certainly one of — if not the — city’s oldest spots for the cracker-crust delicacy. Founded in 1953 by the Petrillo family and run for decades by its second owners, the Morgans, the restaurant has come to define the genre for its loyal Lemay customers, as well as those who travel far and wide for a taste of St. Louis pizza history. Current owners Dennis and Tonya Buechel are fiercely protective of that legacy and have committed to keeping things going the way they always have. This means using the same recipe — one that (gasp!) doesn’t include Provel — the same deck ovens, the same vintage pizza pans and even the same ravioli prep board made for the restaurant back in the 1960s as a shop-class project by one of the restaurant’s regulars. When you taste a Monte Bello pizza, you’re tasting a good pie for sure, but what makes it really special is that you are tasting a bit of St. Louis history.
—Cheryl Baehr
12 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Restaurant Service
Louie
When you try to pick apart what makes Louie (706 De Mun Avenue, Clayton; 314-300-8188) such an all-around outstanding restaurant, you might be tempted to focus on the parts. Its food is a flawlessly executed mix of approachable yet elegant Italian. The beverage program is top notch, and the decor (that peony wallpaper, *swoon*) is a vibe. However, there are a lot of great area restaurants that tick these boxes just as well as Louie. It makes you wonder why this magical De Mun spot seems to transcend the sum of its parts, leaving its diners dazzled at every turn. The answer is hospitality. Beginning at the top with owner Matt McGuire, Louie is the sort of restaurant that makes every last diner — from the four-top eating multiple courses and quaffing expensive wine to the walk-in who bellies up to the pizza counter — feel like an insider. From his post in the rear of the shotgun restaurant where he slices prosciutto di Parma to order, McGuire holds court over the restaurant, keeping an eye on all of the comings and goings and directing his front- and back-of-house staff like a master symphony conductor. His touch needn’t be heavy, though, for he’s created a culture where every one of his employees buys into the restaurant’s values for hospitality, something you feel throughout your entire experience, whether you are a regular or a first-time guest. That’s Louie’s X factor.
—Cheryl Baehr
Louie
When you try to pick apart what makes Louie (706 De Mun Avenue, Clayton; 314-300-8188) such an all-around outstanding restaurant, you might be tempted to focus on the parts. Its food is a flawlessly executed mix of approachable yet elegant Italian. The beverage program is top notch, and the decor (that peony wallpaper, *swoon*) is a vibe. However, there are a lot of great area restaurants that tick these boxes just as well as Louie. It makes you wonder why this magical De Mun spot seems to transcend the sum of its parts, leaving its diners dazzled at every turn. The answer is hospitality. Beginning at the top with owner Matt McGuire, Louie is the sort of restaurant that makes every last diner — from the four-top eating multiple courses and quaffing expensive wine to the walk-in who bellies up to the pizza counter — feel like an insider. From his post in the rear of the shotgun restaurant where he slices prosciutto di Parma to order, McGuire holds court over the restaurant, keeping an eye on all of the comings and goings and directing his front- and back-of-house staff like a master symphony conductor. His touch needn’t be heavy, though, for he’s created a culture where every one of his employees buys into the restaurant’s values for hospitality, something you feel throughout your entire experience, whether you are a regular or a first-time guest. That’s Louie’s X factor.
—Cheryl Baehr
13 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Seafood
Jalea
Even as recently as a year ago, if you told someone that the best seafood spot in the metro area would be located on St. Charles’ historic Main Street, you would’ve been laughed all the way to the Missouri River’s headwaters. Known for its quaint boutiques, approachable American-style fare and libation-fueled clubgoing, the neighborhood is not exactly the place where you expect to find culinary innovation. Andrew Cisneros did not get that memo. Earlier this year, he and his sister, Samantha, opened the thrilling Jalea (323 North Main Street, St. Charles; 314-303-0144) as a love song to the cevicherias that define their family’s Peruvian homeland. Instead of playing it safe and offering a menu packed with familiar dishes, Cisneros went all in, serving an exclusively seafood menu (save for one braised pork-belly appetizer) that thrills at every turn. His crab salad, tucked into a semi-sweet roll, is what lobster rolls on the coast dream of being; the restaurant’s namesake, a fried seafood platter, is the best fritto misto of your life; his ceviche tastes as fresh as if you were eating it on the South American coast. However, Jalea’s crown jewel is its arroz con mariscos, a paella-like dish packed with shrimp, clams and mussels that are served over garlic rice that is so perfect it should be the rice against which all others are judged. That Jalea packs the house on the regular proves that, if you make great food, the people will come.
—Cheryl Baehr
Jalea
Even as recently as a year ago, if you told someone that the best seafood spot in the metro area would be located on St. Charles’ historic Main Street, you would’ve been laughed all the way to the Missouri River’s headwaters. Known for its quaint boutiques, approachable American-style fare and libation-fueled clubgoing, the neighborhood is not exactly the place where you expect to find culinary innovation. Andrew Cisneros did not get that memo. Earlier this year, he and his sister, Samantha, opened the thrilling Jalea (323 North Main Street, St. Charles; 314-303-0144) as a love song to the cevicherias that define their family’s Peruvian homeland. Instead of playing it safe and offering a menu packed with familiar dishes, Cisneros went all in, serving an exclusively seafood menu (save for one braised pork-belly appetizer) that thrills at every turn. His crab salad, tucked into a semi-sweet roll, is what lobster rolls on the coast dream of being; the restaurant’s namesake, a fried seafood platter, is the best fritto misto of your life; his ceviche tastes as fresh as if you were eating it on the South American coast. However, Jalea’s crown jewel is its arroz con mariscos, a paella-like dish packed with shrimp, clams and mussels that are served over garlic rice that is so perfect it should be the rice against which all others are judged. That Jalea packs the house on the regular proves that, if you make great food, the people will come.
—Cheryl Baehr
14 of 59
Lucas Peterson
Best Fried Chicken
Juniper
Earlier this year, Eater named Juniper (4101 Laclede Avenue, 314-329-7696) one of the best places for fried chicken in the United States. The nod was a long time coming; since opening in 2013, Juniper has earned a reputation as the place in town to go for the deep-fried bird. It’s something that owner John Perkins has not only come to peace with but has enthusiastically embraced. A self-professed lover of fried chicken, Perkins sees the dish as a source of pride, encouraging his chefs to put their hearts and souls into it, even as he understands that they might not initially think of it as the most creative endeavor. Perkins disagrees and has dedicated a significant amount of effort toward making the already excellent dish better, which speaks to the pursuit of perfection that drives everything he and his team do at the restaurant — not just the chicken. Once people get in the doors for his shockingly juicy, impossibly crisp, perfectly seasoned bird, they get excited about the restaurant’s other Southern-inflected specialties. It’s the tastiest gateway drug there is.
—Cheryl Baehr
Juniper
Earlier this year, Eater named Juniper (4101 Laclede Avenue, 314-329-7696) one of the best places for fried chicken in the United States. The nod was a long time coming; since opening in 2013, Juniper has earned a reputation as the place in town to go for the deep-fried bird. It’s something that owner John Perkins has not only come to peace with but has enthusiastically embraced. A self-professed lover of fried chicken, Perkins sees the dish as a source of pride, encouraging his chefs to put their hearts and souls into it, even as he understands that they might not initially think of it as the most creative endeavor. Perkins disagrees and has dedicated a significant amount of effort toward making the already excellent dish better, which speaks to the pursuit of perfection that drives everything he and his team do at the restaurant — not just the chicken. Once people get in the doors for his shockingly juicy, impossibly crisp, perfectly seasoned bird, they get excited about the restaurant’s other Southern-inflected specialties. It’s the tastiest gateway drug there is.
—Cheryl Baehr
15 of 59
Andy Paulissen
Best Place to Dine with Kids
Mai Lee
If you assume eating out with little ones means finding places with kids’ menus and sticking to the tedious brown items on offer (chicken strips! fries! grilled cheese!), you might not think of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurant as a good place to take your kids. But think again. In addition to being a destination for the city’s most discriminating adults, Mai Lee (8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood; 314-645-2835) also hits all the high points for the under-13 set. Among them: It’s loud but not too loud (“too noisy” is a huge problem for sound-sensitive kids in many modern dining rooms, but “too quiet” is a huge problem if Junior melts down). The service is consistently fast (they’ll get your food on the table quick enough to ward off that hangry behavior). And the voluminous menu doesn’t have the spiciness that causes many youngsters to revolt against Thai or Szechuan offerings, making it surprisingly friendly for all but the pickiest of eaters. Just make sure your order includes spring rolls and an all-important smoothie in addition to your favorite dishes, and watch as a new generation adopts one of St. Louis’ greatest dining traditions.
—Sarah Fenske
Mai Lee
If you assume eating out with little ones means finding places with kids’ menus and sticking to the tedious brown items on offer (chicken strips! fries! grilled cheese!), you might not think of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurant as a good place to take your kids. But think again. In addition to being a destination for the city’s most discriminating adults, Mai Lee (8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood; 314-645-2835) also hits all the high points for the under-13 set. Among them: It’s loud but not too loud (“too noisy” is a huge problem for sound-sensitive kids in many modern dining rooms, but “too quiet” is a huge problem if Junior melts down). The service is consistently fast (they’ll get your food on the table quick enough to ward off that hangry behavior). And the voluminous menu doesn’t have the spiciness that causes many youngsters to revolt against Thai or Szechuan offerings, making it surprisingly friendly for all but the pickiest of eaters. Just make sure your order includes spring rolls and an all-important smoothie in addition to your favorite dishes, and watch as a new generation adopts one of St. Louis’ greatest dining traditions.
—Sarah Fenske
16 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Deli
Pastaria Deli & Wine
Long before the pandemic upended the way we eat and drink, chef and restaurateur Gerard Craft wanted to open a deli — not a New York-style, pastrami-on-rye sandwich shop, but the type of Italian-influenced food counter he fell in love with on his many travels to the Old Country. That opportunity presented itself to him when his beloved restaurant and wine bar Sardella fell victim to the COVID-induced sea change in sit-down dining. In its ashes, Craft brought to life Pastaria Deli & Wine (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-773-7755), a casual-dining and carryout-friendly spot featuring beautifully executed sandwiches, salads and snacks concocted by its talented chef, Brian Moxey. The deli shines with deceptively simple dishes such as the Volpi heritage prosciutto sandwich, paired with cultured butter, Agrumato lemon and housemade giardiniera, as well as more decadent comfort fare like Moxey’s meatball sub. Sardella was a difficult loss for the city’s restaurant scene, which is why it feels important to have something so special come to life in its hallowed space.
—Cheryl Baehr
Pastaria Deli & Wine
Long before the pandemic upended the way we eat and drink, chef and restaurateur Gerard Craft wanted to open a deli — not a New York-style, pastrami-on-rye sandwich shop, but the type of Italian-influenced food counter he fell in love with on his many travels to the Old Country. That opportunity presented itself to him when his beloved restaurant and wine bar Sardella fell victim to the COVID-induced sea change in sit-down dining. In its ashes, Craft brought to life Pastaria Deli & Wine (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-773-7755), a casual-dining and carryout-friendly spot featuring beautifully executed sandwiches, salads and snacks concocted by its talented chef, Brian Moxey. The deli shines with deceptively simple dishes such as the Volpi heritage prosciutto sandwich, paired with cultured butter, Agrumato lemon and housemade giardiniera, as well as more decadent comfort fare like Moxey’s meatball sub. Sardella was a difficult loss for the city’s restaurant scene, which is why it feels important to have something so special come to life in its hallowed space.
—Cheryl Baehr
17 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Diner
Morning Glory
St. Louis has its fair share of lovably greasy diners, but Morning Glory Diner (2609 Cherokee Street, 314-261-4842) off Cherokee Street elevates the greasy spoon while still maintaining the laid-back, homey diner atmosphere. Helmed by chef Ari Jo Ellis, Morning Glory serves up all the classic diner staples with taste and class. The diner’s slinger — two golden hash browns and a sausage patty topped with eggs and American cheese — is a delicious (and surprisingly non-greasy) take on a St. Louis staple. Make sure to try the diner’s breakfast hoagies, or “boagies,” with sausage, eggs and bacon sandwiched between a toasted hoagie roll from Union Loafers. Have a sweet breakfast with the diner’s homemade pie and French toast bread pudding. Really, anything on Morning Glory’s menu tops that of a stereotypical diner. But beyond the menu, the diner’s friendly and vivacious staff are what makes a morning at Morning Glory truly glorious.
—Monica Obradovic
Morning Glory
St. Louis has its fair share of lovably greasy diners, but Morning Glory Diner (2609 Cherokee Street, 314-261-4842) off Cherokee Street elevates the greasy spoon while still maintaining the laid-back, homey diner atmosphere. Helmed by chef Ari Jo Ellis, Morning Glory serves up all the classic diner staples with taste and class. The diner’s slinger — two golden hash browns and a sausage patty topped with eggs and American cheese — is a delicious (and surprisingly non-greasy) take on a St. Louis staple. Make sure to try the diner’s breakfast hoagies, or “boagies,” with sausage, eggs and bacon sandwiched between a toasted hoagie roll from Union Loafers. Have a sweet breakfast with the diner’s homemade pie and French toast bread pudding. Really, anything on Morning Glory’s menu tops that of a stereotypical diner. But beyond the menu, the diner’s friendly and vivacious staff are what makes a morning at Morning Glory truly glorious.
—Monica Obradovic
18 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Sandwich
Pastrami at Nomad
Even as a young line cook coming up in some of the area’s top restaurants, Tommy Andrew wanted to open a sandwich spot — the sort of place that had that one special thing everyone knew about and came to eat. When he was offered the opportunity to open Nomad (1221 Tamm Avenue, 314-696-2360) in February of 2020, it was a no-brainer that pastrami would be that dish for Andrew. A self-described lover of the peppery cured meat, Andrew had been perfecting his recipe for years and had gotten it so locked down he felt confident he could build an entire restaurant around it. One bite of his pastrami sandwich, and you can taste why he was so bullish. Brined in toasted herbs, sugar, spices, salt, honey and a number of other secret ingredients, the brisket is then rubbed with mustard and black pepper before it’s smoked, giving it layers of flavor beyond the one-dimensional peppery heat that is typical of the deli staple. Even with all these ingredients involved, the dominant tastes you get from Andrew’s pastrami are smoke and beef. And that texture — crumbly like a gorgeous Texas-style brisket and so marbled it slicks the tongue with fat. Andrew piles this glorious meat on marble rye bread with melted Swiss cheese and a Russian dressing–esque tangy special sauce. It’s perfection.
—Cheryl Baehr
Pastrami at Nomad
Even as a young line cook coming up in some of the area’s top restaurants, Tommy Andrew wanted to open a sandwich spot — the sort of place that had that one special thing everyone knew about and came to eat. When he was offered the opportunity to open Nomad (1221 Tamm Avenue, 314-696-2360) in February of 2020, it was a no-brainer that pastrami would be that dish for Andrew. A self-described lover of the peppery cured meat, Andrew had been perfecting his recipe for years and had gotten it so locked down he felt confident he could build an entire restaurant around it. One bite of his pastrami sandwich, and you can taste why he was so bullish. Brined in toasted herbs, sugar, spices, salt, honey and a number of other secret ingredients, the brisket is then rubbed with mustard and black pepper before it’s smoked, giving it layers of flavor beyond the one-dimensional peppery heat that is typical of the deli staple. Even with all these ingredients involved, the dominant tastes you get from Andrew’s pastrami are smoke and beef. And that texture — crumbly like a gorgeous Texas-style brisket and so marbled it slicks the tongue with fat. Andrew piles this glorious meat on marble rye bread with melted Swiss cheese and a Russian dressing–esque tangy special sauce. It’s perfection.
—Cheryl Baehr
19 of 59
Mabel Suen
Best Restaurant
Noto
A few years ago, Kendele Noto Sieve had to break her dad’s heart and inform him that she would not be taking over his bakery as she’d been primed to do all her life but would instead be opening an Italian restaurant in its space with her husband, Wayne. It was a gamble for the pair; they envisioned an eatery centered around authentic Italian cuisine that would be true to the dining experiences they’ve had while visiting the Amalfi Coast. Yet they were located deep in St. Charles County where they were told they’d have to cater their menu to more familiar (read: Provel and red sauce) tastes for area diners. They trusted their instincts — and their guests — and wound up with the exceptional Noto (5105 Westwood Drive, St. Peters; 636-317-1143). The food is uncomplicated yet fiercely authentic Italian fare such as handmade pastas, traditional Neapolitan pizza, mouthwatering arancini and a steak that would make any chophouse envious. You’d think such a place would keep its head down and continue doing what it’s doing, but the Sieves have continued to push Noto to be even more perfect, bringing on the talented Josh Poletti as executive chef about a year ago. A veteran of some of the biggest-name restaurants in town and, hands-down, the area’s go-to charcuterie guy, Poletti has helped Noto transition from a really freaking-good restaurant into a truly extraordinary one. Papa Noto must be proud.
—Cheryl Baehr
Noto
A few years ago, Kendele Noto Sieve had to break her dad’s heart and inform him that she would not be taking over his bakery as she’d been primed to do all her life but would instead be opening an Italian restaurant in its space with her husband, Wayne. It was a gamble for the pair; they envisioned an eatery centered around authentic Italian cuisine that would be true to the dining experiences they’ve had while visiting the Amalfi Coast. Yet they were located deep in St. Charles County where they were told they’d have to cater their menu to more familiar (read: Provel and red sauce) tastes for area diners. They trusted their instincts — and their guests — and wound up with the exceptional Noto (5105 Westwood Drive, St. Peters; 636-317-1143). The food is uncomplicated yet fiercely authentic Italian fare such as handmade pastas, traditional Neapolitan pizza, mouthwatering arancini and a steak that would make any chophouse envious. You’d think such a place would keep its head down and continue doing what it’s doing, but the Sieves have continued to push Noto to be even more perfect, bringing on the talented Josh Poletti as executive chef about a year ago. A veteran of some of the biggest-name restaurants in town and, hands-down, the area’s go-to charcuterie guy, Poletti has helped Noto transition from a really freaking-good restaurant into a truly extraordinary one. Papa Noto must be proud.
—Cheryl Baehr
20 of 59
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