Taha'a Twisted Tiki

The phrase, "no hurry, no worry" greets visitors upon entering Taha'a Twisted Tiki, a French Polynesian-themed bar in the Grove. Lucas and Derek Gamlin, known for such spirit-centric ventures as SubZero Vodka Bar and Gamlin Whiskey House, have their fingers on the pulse of the latest liquor trends. If Taha’a is any indication, rum is poised to be the next big thing. The brothers have chosen to celebrate it in the style of classic tiki, with “Zombies,” mai tais and “Volcanoes” lit afire and served with umbrellas. Taha’s has all of the staples of a tiki lounge: a thatched outdoor patio, bartenders in Hawaiian shirts and ceramic shark-head mugs. It’s a fabulous place to drink, but the food lacks the cocktails’ vibrancy. Best bets are the ginger-soy-glazed Taha’a chicken wings and the zesty tuna poke (though the long strips of tuna are a little hard to manage). Pass on the skewers — they’re tiny and lackluster — but save room for the fried Oreos. Perhaps they’re more Hawaii State Fair than Polynesian tiki, but after a few cocktails, it doesn’t matter.