Taqueria Durango

Ask where to find St. Louis’ best Mexican food and many people in the know will point you not to Cherokee Street but Taqueria Durango, the unassuming strip mall taqueria in northwest county. The eatery is serious about its tacos; carnitas, barbacoa and al pastor are available, of course, but they share equal billing with such lesser-found ingredients like lingua, cabeza and pork stomach. Trust the cooks; these off cuts are some of the most tender, flavorful fillers you will find on the menu —  that is, if you allow yourself to order anything other than the torta ahogada, a heaping portion of pork and onions cradled between two massive slices of pillow-like bread that have been dipped in fiery red chile sauce. It’s a masterpiece. $. Opens daily at 11 a.m.