The menu is about as spare and simple as Neapolitan pizza itself, and this impossible-to-impress “pie-hard” had to go straight for the classic Margherita D.O.P. pizza. The crust is typical of the genre — thin in the center with a raised, tender edge speckled with characteristic char blisters. Though the black marks are a necessity of the style, some of our pies may have stayed in the wood-burning oven too long — twice we received crusts covered with golf-ball-sized eruptions that made the whole thing bitter. The sauce — traditionally nothing more than crushed San Marzano tomatoes, salt and olive oil — was beautiful in its sweet-tart simplicity. However, I had mixed emotions about the cheese. Randolph’s source is Colombia-based Annabella Buffalo Cheeses, which makes its mozzarella from free-roaming, grass-fed buffalo. However, I found myself questioning whether it was actually buffalo mozzarella. Unlike the wetter buffalo mozzarella that nearly liquefies when heated, this was rather firm. It had a nice, mild earthy flavor, but I could have used a little more ooze.
Keep reading: Cheryl Baehr's review of The Good Pie
Photos by Jennifer Silverberg for the Riverfront Times