April 23, 2014

The Good Pie Serves Neapolitan Style Pizza in the Delmar Loop

The menu is about as spare and simple as Neapolitan pizza itself, and this impossible-to-impress “pie-hard” had to go straight for the classic Margherita D.O.P. pizza. The crust is typical of the genre — thin in the center with a raised, tender edge speckled with characteristic char blisters. Though the black marks are a necessity of the style, some of our pies may have stayed in the wood-burning oven too long — twice we received crusts covered with golf-ball-sized eruptions that made the whole thing bitter. The sauce — traditionally nothing more than crushed San Marzano tomatoes, salt and olive oil — was beautiful in its sweet-tart simplicity. However, I had mixed emotions about the cheese. Randolph’s source is Colombia-based Annabella Buffalo Cheeses, which makes its mozzarella from free-roaming, grass-fed buffalo. However, I found myself questioning whether it was actually buffalo mozzarella. Unlike the wetter buffalo mozzarella that nearly liquefies when heated, this was rather firm. It had a nice, mild earthy flavor, but I could have used a little more ooze.

Keep reading: Cheryl Baehr's review of The Good Pie.

Photos by Jennifer Silverberg for the Riverfront Times.
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The Good Pie's "Mastunicola Pizza," topped with egg, cured pork belly, parmigiano and sage.
The Good Pie's "Mastunicola Pizza," topped with egg, cured pork belly, parmigiano and sage.
The Good Pie's imported brick pizza oven.
The Good Pie's imported brick pizza oven.
The Good Pie's Margherita Pizza.
The Good Pie's Margherita Pizza.
Head pizzaiolo, Ryan Skyles, crafts the Margherita pizza.
Head pizzaiolo, Ryan Skyles, crafts the Margherita pizza.
Inside the brick pizza oven at the Good Pie.
Inside the brick pizza oven at the Good Pie.
Charcuterie waiting to happen.
Charcuterie waiting to happen.
The Good Pie's butcher and pasta maker, John Messbarger, prepares the gnocchi.
The Good Pie's butcher and pasta maker, John Messbarger, prepares the gnocchi.
The Good Pie's Margherita Pizza.
The Good Pie's Margherita Pizza.
The Caesar salad is made with egg and parmigiano, and it has the additional option of anchovy.
The Caesar salad is made with egg and parmigiano, and it has the additional option of anchovy.
"Gnocchi di Patate," made with prosciutto, quail egg, pansy and chive.
"Gnocchi di Patate," made with prosciutto, quail egg, pansy and chive.