In St. Louis, most restaurant discussions begin and end with Tony's, for very good reason. The Bommarito clan, which owns the restaurant, is positively fanatical about perfection in every aspect of the meal. Entrées are not particularly elaborate but are perfectly balanced. Lobster Albanello is considered something of a signature dish, but nowhere will you find a better veal chop. There is generally something available either on or off the menu to please any mood, including a layering of roasted fresh vegetables for the non-carnivore. Throughout the meal, patriarch Vince Bommarito wanders and schmoozes.