The menu at this cozy suburban restaurant may not surprise you, but the skill and care with which head chef Kostandin "Tika" Ceko executes the classic Italian, Italian-American and (yes) St. Louis Italian dishes just might. You can begin with toasted ravioli and fried calamari, but for a more delicate touch try melezane imbottite (thin slices of eggplant wrapped around a scoop of creamy ricotta) or a simple antipasto of roasted red peppers with fresh mozzarella and anchovies. Stuffed pastas such as lobster ravioli and tortelloni alla boscaiola are very good, and the tremendous veal chop - nearly as big as Albert Pujols' head - might be the best in town.