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Anything you might presume about the Twisted Tree based on its location in a Holiday Inn parking lot will get checked at the door, as the fast food joints and chain stores of Sunset Hills give way to a sophisticated bar that could be a million light years away — or at least several miles to the northeast in Clayton. Dim lighting and sleek, backlit finishes illuminate the lounge, packed with would-be patrons waiting upward of two hours for a table. It’s not just hype; Twisted Tree’s food is worth waiting for. The onion rings are famous, the steaks are expertly cooked and the batter-dipped lobster tails are terrific. Even the salads (made tableside to your specifications) are seriously good. The service, too, is impeccable. $$$-$$$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Closed Sunday and Monday.)

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