BENTON PARK & ITS NEIGHBORS
Blues City Deli
Since 2004, owner Vince Valenza has been the de facto ambassador of Benton Park, serving his impossibly good sandwiches to a crowd that turns this little stretch of south city into an impromptu street party any time the weather is good. Blues City Deli (2438 McNair Avenue, 314-773-8225) prides itself on having the feel of a "big old house party," one where you're likely to find yourself out back playing washers. Beer only. $. Open 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Sidewalk seating.
Frazer's Restaurant & Lounge
Chef/owner Frazer Cameron's cooking strikes a balance between contemporary style, market freshness and good ol' American comfort. The regular menu features steak, salmon and other popular dishes, but regulars know to check the chalkboards outside the kitchen for the specials: multiple catches of the day, a king crab boil, pork schnitzel — who knows, really? The cocktail list, too, is endlessly changing, with four seasons' worth of selections in addition to a roster of classics. And few places are more fun to drink than Frazer's (1811 Pestalozzi Street, 314-773-8646) bar, which has not only excellent cocktails but a snazzy mid-century modern vibe. $$-$$$. Opens at 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Little Fox
When Craig and Mowgli Rivard moved from Brooklyn, New York, to Craig's hometown of St. Louis in 2019, they imagined themselves opening a modern interpretation of the quintessential neighborhood restaurant. They found the perfect space in Fox Park; partnered with a prominent architecture and design firm; and put together a vibrant menu, exciting beverage program and a hospitality ethos that would become the lovely Little Fox (2800 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-553-9456). The pandemic blew up their ideas about what Little Fox could be, though the husband-and-wife team have clawed their way back up the cliff through innovation, adaptation and a refusal to cede their dream. The result of their tenacity is a Little Fox that feels even more vital to the neighborhood than it did before. $$-$$$. Open Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.
Lona's Lil Eats
Owner Lona Lao hails from the remote southwestern part of China — closer to Laos and Burma than Beijing — and her mother is Thai (her father is part of the ethnic Lao Lao tribe, which boasts a rich barbecue culture). Lona's Lil Eats (2199 California Avenue, 314-925-8938) draws its inspiration from her paternal heritage, but those other influences are woven into its fabric as well. Lao and her husband Pierce Powers opened their fast-casual restaurant in 2014 and have been wowing diners ever since. The menu is simple: dumplings, wraps and plates. But Lao's flavor combinations are so unique and multi-layered, your mouth will be dancing long after you finish your meal. $-$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sidewalk seating.
Lucky Accomplice
When Logan Ely announced the opening of Lucky Accomplice (2501 South Jefferson Avenue, 314-354-6100) in 2020, he said he wanted a friendly neighborhood gathering place that his then-restaurant, Shift, could not fully be. He achieved that, and then some, with Lucky Accomplice. Yet, he did so without dimming the luster he first brought to Shift. Dining at Lucky Accomplice will make you think differently about food but without the pomp and circumstance of fine dining. Expect something soulful yet refined, like the smoked chili mafalda served in a pancetta parmesan brodo with hon-shimeiji mushrooms, toasted yeast and a soft egg. $$$. Open Wednesday through Saturday for dinner and cocktails. Catch brunch from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and dinner from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Sundays. Street parking only.
Milque Toast Bar
More an open-faced sandwich shop than a fancy toast spot, this cozy McKinley Heights gem will make a believer out of even the most trend-averse skeptic. Milque Toast's (2212 South Jefferson Avenue, 314-833-0085) "topped toasts" — slathered with an ever-changing roster of toppings like goat cheese covered with truffled mushrooms, or a luscious blue cheese version, spiked with Louisiana hot sauce — are simply delicious, with soups, stews and a few sides completing the menu. Smoothies, malts and fun drinks like a hibiscus fizz change with the seasons. $. Opens at 8 a.m., with hours until 4 p.m. daily.
Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.
For his sophomore effort, Sidney Street Cafe executive chef Kevin Nashan transformed the former Niche space in Benton Park into a whitewashed beach shack with the freshest seafood in town. Diners can feast on everything from lobster and crab boils to oyster po'boys to freshly shucked oysters and peel-and-eat shrimp. The signature dish at Peacemaker (1831 Sidney Street, 314-772-8858) is its lobster roll. Served either Connecticut style, with drawn butter, or Maine style, with mayonnaise, the shockingly fresh meat is wrapped in a bun that is half brioche, half Texas toast. Meat eaters should not shy away from Peacemaker; its brisket sandwich rivals those served at the town's best smokehouses. Boozy slushies add to the summer vacation vibe. $$$. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Sidney Street Cafe
Chef Kevin Nashan's cuisine is defined less by a particular genre than by a feeling — a sort of refinement of texture and flavor that comes from the hand of a master (is there a better seafood chef in town?). It's no wonder that he's achieved national recognition for his work, including the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest in 2017. Sidney Street's (2000 Sidney Street, 314-771-5777) vibe is more romantic than some of its peers in the city's top echelons, with exposed brick walls, a dark bar and knowledgeable servers who know their way around a wine list. You can get adventurous with an Asian-inflected appetizer from the ever-changing chalkboard list or order a steak with béarnaise. Either way, rest assured it's been given Nashan's Midas touch. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 5 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.
