The Very Best Things We Ate in St. Louis in 2018

Crab and Pork soup dumplings at Soup Dumplings STL

8110 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-445-4605

Crab and pork might seem like a questionable pairing, but the two ingredients work together beautifully. Small shreds of the shellfish add a subtle sweetness to the savory pork without taking over. In this broth, chef Lawrence Chen adds just a whisper of truffle oil, infusing the liquid with a rich, earthy pop of umami that lingers even after the last bite — haunting you so much that you might feel compelled to order a second round.

Check it out here.

Tonkatsu ramen at Toasty Subs

3001 S. Big Bend Boulevard, Maplewood; 314-833-3277

The tonkatsu ramen has a deep, satisfying broth enlivened with just a whisper of ginger. Slices of pork belly are so tender they seem as if they might dissolve into the savory liquid, their rich flavor accented with diced onions, bamboo shoots, mushrooms and corn. A perfectly cooked soft-boiled egg bobs in the broth along with springy noodles. It's a bowl that stands shoulder to shoulder with the ones at area restaurants that dedicate themselves to the craft.

Check it out here.

Quail at Billie-Jean

7610 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-797-8484

Billie-Jean's quail is show-stopper. It's a golden raisin, pine nut and cornbread-stuffed game bird that fills the table with the nutty scent of brown butter when it's placed before you. The skin is perfectly crisped and the meat so tender it slides off the bones.

Check it out here.

Oysters and Pearls at Yellowbelly

4659 Lindell Blvd, yellowbellystl.com

Yellowbelly bills itself a sea-inspired affair, a mystique perfectly captured in its "Oysters and Pearls" appetizer. Shrouded in a thick, swirling fog of liquid nitrogen, the oysters appear at the table as if they have been conjured there by a benevolent sea goddess. The cloud slowly lifts, revealing six shimmering Kumamoto oysters. Each is adorned with several pea-sized "pearls" of mouth-puckering cocktail sauce; when the miniature ice spheres pop, they gently melt on the tongue, wrapping the creamy oyster in piquant refreshment. The experience is more enrapturing than a siren song.

Check it out here.

Mound City Double at Shake Shack

60 North Euclid Avenue, 314-627-5518

Bacon plays a starring role in Shake Shack's St. Louis-only specialty burger: the "Mound City Double." Even those typically immune from the sweet, sweet siren song of Provel can appreciate how well it melts between the two greasy burger patties, oozing into every crevice of the meat, almost making the burger seem stuffed. Tangy "STL Sauce" and a potato bun are the only finishing touches needed — no lettuce, tomato or pickle. It's just meat, cheese, bread and a love of St. Louis in this excellent sandwich.

Check it out here.

Pecan pie at 24:1

6730 Page Avenue, 314-376-5670

This is a classic rendition: gooey corn-syrup filling, candied pecans and flaky crust. However, classic does not mean standard. The filling is like caramelly butterscotch, not the one-dimensional sugar bomb that is so often served. An unexpected essence of citrus cuts through the sweetness. While candied, the pecans remain crisp and retain their savory notes. And the crust — shortbread cookies envy its nutty, butter-studded flavor. If there's a better version of pecan pie around, I've never had it.

Check it out here.

Arancini at Louie

706 De Mun Avenue, Clayton; 314-300-8188

What could be more warmly satisfying than an appetizer special of arancini, the most authentic rendition of the Sicilian dish I have seen outside the old country? Spheres of risotto as big as tennis balls are fried so that the outside develops a delicate crust that yields to the creamy interior with just the touch of a fork. Ground beef, prosciutto and rich tomato sauce are a savory prize at the center. They are the perfection of the form.

Check it out here.

Basa sliders at DD Mau

11982 Dorsett Road, 314-942-2300

DD Mau offers several appetizers, including Vietnamese spring rolls stuffed with shrimp that is so fresh from the grill you can feel it steaming through the translucent rice paper wrapper. Bao sliders are a fun take on the trendy buns. Stuffed with pork they're good; filled with crispy fried basa, a fish similar to catfish, they are positively addictive. One bite of that catfish — heck, one bite of anything at DD Mau — and you'll be hooked.

Check it out here.

Chicken shawarma at Majeed

4658 Gravois Avenue, 314-282-0981

Somehow, each individual hunk of chicken is both succulent and caramelized on the outside. Lemon zest and garlic enliven meat that would be delicious even on its own. Slathered with a cloud-like garlic puree and wrapped into a pita, it's transcendent.

Check it out here.

Roasted chicken and Ugandan fried rice at Simba

8531 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-484-2530

The roasted quarter-chicken is simply outstanding, its succulent meat kissed with herbs, pepper and smoke. It's a simple pleasure, but among the best roasted chickens I've ever eaten. I'd wait from here to eternity for that chicken.

Check it out here.

Moroccan cigars at the Benevolent King

7268 Manchester Road, 314-899-0440

Chicken, scented with turmeric and cinnamon and glistening with honey, is packed into a cigar-shaped phyllo wrapper before being fried to the golden hue and crackly texture of late-autumn leaves.

Check it out here.

Smoked turkey at Nubby's

11133 Lindbergh Business Court, 314-200-9123

The restaurant's best item may be its most understated: the smoked turkey. The sweet flavor of fruit wood stands out without taking over, and the meat is the juiciest smoked bird I've ever enjoyed. Putting sauce on such a beautiful specimen would be blasphemy. It's perfect as is.

Check it out here.

Grits with chicken mole at Squatters Cafe

3524 Washington Avenue; 314-925-7556

Grits so creamy they'd bring a tear to the eye of a Southern grandma would normally be the star of the show, but here they share equal billing with a pull-apart chicken mole. Unlike the rich, chocolatey style often favored by local restaurants, this version is more delicate and cinnamon-forward, as if chicken jus was turned into a baking-spiced pan sauce. Squatter's changes the topping for the grits on a regular basis, so you won't always get to feast on this wonderful chicken. That provides an opportunity to see more of what the chefs can do, though it also means not having daily access to this transcendent mole.

Check it out here.

Grits with chicken mole at Squatters Cafe

3524 Washington Avenue; 314-925-7556

Grits so creamy they'd bring a tear to the eye of a Southern grandma would normally be the star of the show, but here they share equal billing with a pull-apart chicken mole. Unlike the rich, chocolatey style often favored by local restaurants, this version is more delicate and cinnamon-forward, as if chicken jus was turned into a baking-spiced pan sauce. Squatter's changes the topping for the grits on a regular basis, so you won't always get to feast on this wonderful chicken. That provides an opportunity to see more of what the chefs can do, though it also means not having daily access to this transcendent mole.

Check it out here.

Chicken wings at Levant

386 North Euclid Avenue, 314-833-4400

These may be St. Louis' best interpretation of wings and drummies. The key to their success is how succulent the meat is. Even the outer edges of the drummy fall apart in your hands like chicken confit. The meat is so sumptuous, it's as if it's been poached in olive oil. Gently seasoned with garlic and herbs, the wings are accompanied by a side of a creamy garlic puree that will make you question why anyone wastes their time with ranch dressing — or, for that matter, any other chicken wing in town.

Check it out here.

Pulled pork sandwich at Westport Social

910 Westport Plaza Drive, 314-548-2876

The succulent meat was reminiscent of what you'd get hand-plucked at a pig roast. The kitchen was restrained in its accoutrements, allowing the meat to shine through: just a dash of tangy Alabama white barbecue sauce, some slaw and a brioche roll that glistened with pork fat and butter.

Check it out here.

Traditional Sicilian pizza at Cafe Piazza

1900 Arsenal Street, 314-343-0294

The Sicilian-style pizzas are thick and square-cut — and represent the best of Café Piazza. Though it sounds straightforward, the "Traditional Sicilian" dazzles with its lightly spiced and herbaceous chunky tomato sauce and molten mozzarella that melds into the focaccia-like crust so that it's hard to say where one ends and the other begins. The marriage of crust, sauce and cheese is simple yet heavenly.

Check it out here.

Lobster Pizza at Cork and Slice

4501 Maryland Avenue, 314-833-3283

Cork n' Slice's pièce de résistance is its nod to what inspired this endeavor in the first place: the lobster-and-shrimp pizza. I'll admit I was skeptical; visions of rubbery frozen lobster covered in cheese nearly prevented me from ordering it. I will eat my words. Better yet, I'll eat this masterpiece. For the base, a creamy "rosé" sauce mimics the luxurious texture and subtle sweetness of lobster bisque. On top, tender lobster that has been poached in citrus and fresh herbs is paired with equally tender roasted shrimp. The shellfish is sprinkled with orange-tarragon gremolata, perfuming the pizza with bright, licorice refreshment. Were I served lobster and shrimp of this quality at a seafood restaurant, I'd be impressed.

Check it out here.

Carrots at Pig & Pickle*

5513 Pershing Avenue, 314-349-1697

A dish of rustic carrots with Middle-Eastern spices makes one of the most persuasive cases for veggie-forward cooking in recent memory. The expertly cooked vegetables are simply roasted and served alongside luxurious whipped goat cheese and a square of honeycomb. The pungent earth from the carrots, funk from the cheese and sweetness from the honey create a symphony that is positively ethereal.

Check it out here.

The OG at the Cut*

2635 Cherokee Street, 314-250-6007

The "OG" is a classic German-style bratwurst with the exterior snap and luscious filling that only comes from a quality, handmade sausage made from non-commodity pork. Just a suggestion of black pepper and beer infuses the sweet meat, which can be topped with everything from molten cheese to vegan chili but begs for the simplicity of the house's zingy mustard, popping with whole seeds.

Check it out here.

The chef's tasting menu at Privado*

6665 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-899-9221

Part test kitchen, part dinner party, the twelve-course-plus tasting menu is a very expensive peek into the mind of a chef, unfiltered. But while service is impeccable and the food expertly plated, it's not stuffy. The tasting menu takes place in the back of the restaurant, directly in front of the kitchen, like a chef's table. Chef Mike Randolf serves pure decadence when a hollowed-out eggshell filled with earthy shiitake custard and calamansi sabayon arrives at the table. Yes, it's custard on custard, a pairing that would be overly rich were it not for the zing of the tart citrus that infuses the sabayon. A generous sprinkle of Osetra caviar serves the dual purpose of breaking up the richness with brine, demonstrating that Randolph can do over-the-top luxury as well as irreverence.

Check it out here.