Coco Louco Brasil

Jorge Carvalho has relocated his restaurant Café Brasil from Rock Hill to the Central West End. The name has changed, but much of the fare remains the same, from the open-flame Brazilian barbecue known as churrasco to the bracing caipirinha cocktails. Barbecue is a safe bet, with hunks of steak, chicken, shrimp, lamb or sausage served tableside from a metal skewer. Seafood is well represented, with the cod stew peixada a lively example. Feijoada, the black-bean stew that is Brazil's national dish, is very good. Beware the teapot your server offers: It contains cachaça, a powerful sugarcane liquor.