Everything at Los Arcos (3073 Watson Road, 314-256-1295) is in conversation. A portrait of Frida Kahlo glances through the window at papel picado waving guests inward. Ceramic lizards perch above white leather booths. Guitarrón plucks sound over the stereo while clinking glassware keeps time.
Above all, is the sound of owner and family matriarch Maria Ruiz. She readies the kitchen, prepares the bar and tends to her grandchild as the two play trains at a nearby table.
“She does everything. We call her Wonder Woman,” says Ruiz’s daughter, Jesi Moore, while juicing limes.
Ruiz long dreamt of starting a restaurant with her brother Miguel Ruiz. After he launched a successful restaurant in Atlanta, the siblings decided to expand westward toward Ruiz, who was living in St. Louis. They found their second home through a newspaper ad — a brick building off Watson, the previous location of Brazie’s Ristorante.
Since finding the space eight months ago, Ruiz truly has done it all — laid new flooring, repainted ceilings and installed an industrial walk-in freezer — but, of course, not without the help of her family. Since opening late March, the Los Arcos staff has grown to 12, or 14 if counting Ruiz’s grandchildren, who help clean the occasional table.
“We're always laughing, having a good time,” Ruiz says. “They look at me like a friend instead of mom.” Family is at the heart of Los Arcos, and the staff’s shared passion for quality Mexican eats is best tasted.
The menu is large, and the portions are big. It’s everything you’ve come to love at a mom-and-pop joint, and Los Arcos holds no bars — save the fully stocked one at the head of the restaurant. Guacamole is made to order, garnished with fresh cilantro and a spoon that fuels the temptation to eat it straight up.
Moore believes there hasn’t been a day when no one ordered the Pineapple Fajitas. The dish is as much of a treat for the taste buds as it is for the eyes. The stir of chicken, shrimp, cheese and vegetables is served in a halved pineapple upon a still sizzling skillet.
Ruiz also recommends the Tex-Mex Burrito. The three-meat burrito is smothered in red sauce, cheese and a salsa verde and has quickly become a Los Arcos staple.
For the Ruiz family, the dishes at Los Arcos represent a dream come true. With a new opportunity to serve St. Louis, she feels grateful.
“I feel so happy, and I say, everyday, thank you to God,” Ruiz says, gesturing to her heart.
Los Arcos is open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday noon to 9 p.m.
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